A blog devoted primarily to garment sewing - with little splashes of quilting, crafts, and misc. sewing thrown in for variety.
Sunday, January 6, 2013
It seems fitting (pun intended) that my first post of the year is about pants. Last year on PR, we had a year long sew-along for fitting and making pants. I wanted to be able to easily make my own pants that fit better than RTW. I had challenged myself to make an average of 1 pair of pants per month. I didn't meet that challenge, but I have learned a lot and made progress. After making a lot of muslins, looking at my backside more than I ever wanted to, and with the help of the other ladies on the sew-along, I have figured out why most RTW pants and patterns don't work for me. Apparently I have a high round backside with a tilted waist, and this is not the typical, average shape. And I have a very long back crotch and very short front crotch. So now I'm working on making adjustments to come up with a TNT pants pattern.
I started out with this Vogue pattern by Sandra Betzina (it's OOP now).
This pattern came with a Craftsy class on pants fitting taught by Sandra Betzina. The shape and fit of the waist, hips and crotch of this pattern are pretty good for me. Much better than any other pattern I've tried, and I've tried a lot. What I don't like: the legs are very loose, there's a seam in the center of the legs and no front zipper. I also had wrinkles in the backside. And when I tried to fix one wrinkle, I would get 2 more somewhere else. After many test pairs and much slicing & dicing, I have finally come up with a pair of pants I will actually wear. I decided to go with a wide-leg style and loose fit. It's hard to tell in the pictures, but I used a dark purple (eggplant?) corduroy.
Here's a picture showing the pocket and the lining for the fly & waistband. Just for fun, I used a pink zipper :)