PR Contest-McCalls 5138 Blouse Review

This is my entry for the PR "One Pattern, 
Many Looks" contest.  I needed some 
summer blouses & this contest 
was just the incentive I needed.  
The rule was to use 1 pattern and
make at least 2 variations of the same
item.  I used this pattern and made
3 short sleeve blouses.

Description:Misses fitted blouse with front & back horizontal darts; sleeve length options, convertible collar, and shaped hem.

Sizing:I made size 14 at shoulders going out to sz 16 at hips. Note that this is a close fitting blouse. So for the 2nd & 3rd versions, I added a little to the side seams to get a little looser fit.

Fabric Used: For my 1st version, I used a cotton blend from WalMart that I paid $1.50 a yard. It’s actually nice and such a pretty watercolor print. It doesn’t wrinkle much, but does ravel quite a bit. For my 2nd version, I used a light weight cotton that I got at a local fabric store. It has a textured design on it. For the 3rd version, I used a cotton from Joann Fabrics. I believe it’s a “quilting” cotton, but it’s heavier than most and comes out of the dryer hardly wrinkled and has a very nice feel to it. And I LOVE the print.

Pattern alterations and design changes :I took 1" off the shoulder - this is a standard alteration for me. Changes for View 2 and 3: added to side seam; omitted the front vertical darts; increased bust dart a little; made a sway back adjustment; added 2 inches to the length.

Sleeves: version 1 has a narrow band; version 2 is plain; version 3 has cuffs in contrasting fabric.

I changed how the back neck is faced. The pattern has you to clip the undercollar, fold under and stitch to cover the seam. I did this on my 1st blouse, but I don’t really like this method. So, for the 2nd & 3rd versions, I used a bias strip as a “mini facing”. I think this is much better; it’s neater and actually easier to do.

Love this & will do all my collars this way from now on.
I made the collar using this method.  collar

Conclusion: Now that I’ve got the fit right, I love this pattern. It’s a basic blouse that’s quick and easy to make. Only 4 pattern pieces: front, back, collar and sleeve. Plus the sleeve band or cuff, if you like. And it’s well drafted; everything fits together very well. The only issue I have is that there’s a little too much ease in the sleeve cap. I would definitely recommend this pattern.

First blouse

I didn't make a sway back adjustment on the 1st one, 

but did on the 2nd & 3rd,  and the fit is so much better.

3rd blouse

with sway back adjustment